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A little while back I had a problem with the Engine overheating. Turned out after many months of trial and error (mostly error) I had three problems; the thermostat installed was the wrong one (looked the same). secondly, air was trapped in the cooling hoses from the Hot Water Heater and third, an engine exhaust pipe that was beginning to break down. Pictures below. Last update 01/26/2009 |
New Bracket for the water pump belt
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The belt was slipping due to a bracket loosing up and breaking (see second picture below). I had a new bracket built and replace it so the belt was tight again. This bracket did not come with the Westerbeke W30. It was installed in order to turn the salt water cooling pump around for easy access. |
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New exhaust
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The exhaust pipe (below, top four pictures show the before and now pictures of the bronze pipe when I rebuilt the engine in 2001). I choose to go with galvanized pipe this time and design the injector tube with parts obtained from a plumbing shop. I did a dry run install on the engine with the whole exhaust without tightening the pipes. Next I assembled and tightened some parts that would easily fit into the engine compartment. The last thing I installed was the the output of the exhaust coupling to the Hydro-Silencer (see picture five below). After making sure I had a good tight pipe fitting without contact with the cockpit drain, I sprayed the pipe with clear engine paint. I must have put three coats on it, maybe four. I just didn't want it to rust right-a-way. Notice I said right-a-way. Next I used some exhaust heat wrap I bought on Ebay to wrap up the pipe. I put the roll in a clear bag in order to work with it around the tight engine space. The last two pictures show the finished product. With the engine running for two hours I can touch the exhaust heat wrap but not leave my hand on it. We'll see how long galvanized pipe lasts. |
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Cleaning and pressure check of the heat exchanger
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I wanted to remove the heat exchanger and have it cleaned (I acid washed it myself) and have a radiator shop check the pressure. It turned out to be in very good shape and cleaned up nicely. You have just enough room to remove the two end nuts and loosen up the 4 interior nuts (you only loosen these because the heat exchanger is slotted). Pay the money for a new gasket from Westerbeke. Much better than making your own. Got it all back together and replaced the hoses. Take your time and don't drop those nuts in the bilge. |
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Change of Thermostat
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The thermostat I installed originally was from Auto Zone. Right temperature, size and looked like the Westerbeke one. One big difference... The Westerbeke thermostat is a dual bypass thermostat for hot water flow. So I bought a Westerbeke thermostat as a replacement and made my gasket from the top fitting and installed it. Water and antifreeze everywhere (the antifreeze was biodegradable). |
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Replaced the Zinc in the Heat Exchanger
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The first picture below shows where the zinc is located. You can but a replacement anode and screw it in the cap or you can buy the cap with the anode already installed at West Marine. In both cases you have to cut almost 1/2" off of the end so it will fit into the housing. Or I guess you could just buy a Westerbeke version of this anode. |
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Haul Out of 2008 Update
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