Refloating Hood Hatches

Then using a razor blade and Exacto knives, remove the old sealant securing the Lexan to the frame. This requires strength, extreme care so as not to scratch the light, and patience. The sealant comes out in thousands of small pieces. It is then easy to push the light out of the frame. Then all traces of old sealant and dirt are removed from the frames, top and bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

I use a small wire brush in a Dremel tool to help remove old sealant, spots of corrosion, etc. I use the wire brush to clean the threads on the frame for the hatch support. Notice I place newspaper to keep dirt and wire brush filaments out of the cabin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When thoroughly cleaned the frames are then washed with soap and water and set to dry.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the lights are then washed with soap and water and set to dry.
The frames and Lexan are also wiped with 99% alcohol on a rag to remove soap residue prior to reassembly. This is an important step to ensure the sealant will adhere properly to both the frame and light.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Masking tape is applied to the top of frame so we don't get sealant on the outside where it is not wanted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using a razor blade, the masking tape is trimmed to the edge of the metal frame.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The process is repeated for the inside of the frame, masking areas we don't want sealant on. Notice I masked the threaded post. Proper masking makes the clean up job easy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the smallest hatch, I ordered new Lexan as the old light was cracked. It was cut to size, leaving the protective paper on it so it would not get scratched during machining. The hole for the handle hardware was cut before assembly. Here, I am trimming the protective paper using a new Exacto blade and just cutting the paper. It takes a fine feel to not scratch the lexan in the process, so you might want to practice on some scrap pieces first. Since the protective paper is on, I don't need masking tape. I just remove the paper from the areas I wish the sealant to stick to. Remember to wipe with 99% alcohol before assembly!

 

 

 

 

These Hood frames are designed with a weep area in the corners of the frame. This is to allow water that may penetrate the seal to weep out in the corners, keeping the drips out of the cabin. You'll have to look carefully at a disassembled frame to fully understand how this works. To facilitate this, we do not seal the weep slots in the corners. I fold some wax paper pieces over paper towel pieces and insert them into the weep areas. After the sealant is applied and the lights installed in the frame, the wax paper will be removed, leaving the weep areas unsealed. They will work as designed then. If sealed, the water will have no place to go but collect near the welds in the frame and start corrosion. In cold weather, the trapped water will freeze and deteriorate the seal.

A liberal amount of sealant is applied using the caulking gun to the top side of the frame and the light is placed gently and carefully on top. Use only enough sealant to fill the space between light and frame about half. I will add more later. The sealant will ooze out the bottom. I use masking tape across the corners to hold the light centered in the frame while the sealant is still wet. I then turn the wet assembly over, bottom side up.

Now, while the sealant is still wet, I use a plastic scrapper, with a rounded corner to wipe the excess sealant away and make a factory finished bead. I use the 99% alcohol on a rag to wipe up any sealant that may get on parts I don't want any on. This sealant has the propensity to get on everything you touch. So I use plenty of paper towels and have a trash bag handy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After the bead is made and while the sealant is still wet, I remove the masking tape from the light.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And also from the frame. This must be done while wet and before the sealant skins over. If you wait too long, then your professional looking bead will be removed with the masking tape. Work fast, work clean and neat. That is the secret to professional looking results.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also remove the wax paper from the corner weep areas at this time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now turn the hatch over and let it set. Notice how I used the masking tape in corners to prevent the light from sliding in the frame while handling it. Also note I will need to add sealant to top side before the project is done. For now, the bottom must set up. The sealant I use takes about a week to set up, but is firm in 24 hours. Please disregard the poor sealing job someone did to the latch pins. I'll take care of that later. I did not have all the parts I needed to tackle that at this time, but it would be easier to do at the same time. You might keep that in mind should you also refloat hatch lights.

 

 

 

 

The next day, the sealant is firm on the bottom. Only the tape over the corners is removed and sealant is applied into the groove around the light. Using a plastic scrapper, excess sealant is carefully removed. The rest of the masking tape is removed while still wet. Then the finished refloat job is set aside for another day to cure. This one is a 12" by 18" hatch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the finished 9" by14" hatch. I apologize for the reflections in the photo. Those are not scratches. After the sealant has cured, I use polishing compound to remove any light scratches or crazing in the old lights. I finish the job using Meguires plastic lens polish on the Lexan lights and Starbrite stainless steel polish on the frames. The lens polish will protect the lights from UV rays and let water bead off. When all done, the hatches look and perform like new. It's a lot of work, consuming tons of elbow grease, but well worth it in the end.