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While the mast was down on
Mikhaya
in Nov-Dec 2003, |
The 1979 Mast
The Mast Measurements
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Pictures 1 - 26 below show the
mast with a tape measure in the picture, starting at the base
plate. Starting at the top left, zoom in to get a good picture of the
tape measure location and find any item on the mast.
Sorry the tape measure is upside down. |
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5-4-3-2-1 (base) |
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10-9-8-7-6 |
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15-14-13-12-11 |
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20-19-18-17-16 |
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25-24-23-22-21 |
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26 (head) |
Some common points on the mast as measured from the base:
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To VHF Antenna Top 41'-4" |
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To Lightning Rod Top 40'-0" |
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To Anchor Light top 39'-5" |
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To Top (mast it's self) 39'-0" |
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To top black strip 37'-11 1/2" |
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To Lazy Jacks Block 25'-2" |
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To Steaming Light 20'-9" |
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To spreaders center 19'-10 1/2" |
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To winches 3'-2 1/2" |
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To goose Neck 2'-11" |
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Bottom Black Strip 2'-4 1/2 |
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From the Web Site of Rig-Rite
(The Kenyon Spars 5072, came the closest to the actual mast that I had on Mikhaya)
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The Base Plate
The Boom Measurements
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Pictures 1 - 12 below show the boom with a tape measure in the picture, starting at the mast end. Zoom in to get a good picture of the location and measurement for any item on the boom. |
Some common points on the mast as measured from the boom.
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Total end-to-end
15'-10" Main sheet attachment 15'-5" To black strip 14'-9 1/2" Reefing Cleat 1 13'-11 1/2" Reefing Cleat 2 12'-11" Sail Cart Track 10'-1" - 12-1/2 Downhaul 3'-8" Cleats 3'-6" Cleats 1 3'-3" |
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New Boot
Cleaning and Waxing
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The 1979 mast was ionized so the cleaning process was to use a good scrubbing pad and some powered Aluminum cleaner. Worked very well and cleaned up nicely. |
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After a good clean up, a wax job was in order. I think between Pam and Matt, they got five coats on the mast and boom. They used that 3M expensive wax stuff.
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I touched up the
black paint on the cleats, sail gate, black stripes
and mast base. The boom had a new paint job on both
ends as well as the cleats.
New Steaming Light
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The original steaming light from Pearson was hard to change the bulb. So I upgraded and included a deck light also. My son is drilling and tapping the mounting. |
From the Net!
A pro reveals the secrets to successful drilling, screwing and tapping.
Lightning Spike and Cable

New Standing Rigging
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See Standing Rigging |
Checking out the Mast Wiring
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The mast wiring was renewed five years ago and was in good shape. I replaced the anchor light globe, the VHF Antenna, installed a lightning spike, cleaned and sealed the wind vain plug and installed new spreader lights. Before stepping the mast I measured the current load on the lights and did a continuity check for the wind vain cable. Continuity Check:
Current Load Reading:
Mast electrical cables inside of the mast: The mast cables were secured inside of the mast with plumbing pipe insulation tubes. They worked quite well and provided cable protection while reducing the noise inside.
Curing "Mast Rattle"
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Mast Head, Port & Starboard
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The mast head was cleaned up and reworked. The head pulleys were cleaned and refitted. See New Halyards Project. |
Spreader Details
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The large end of the spreader is 3". The length of the spreader is 42 1/2". |
Don't Forget the Sail Track
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I wiped out the sail track with turpentine and sprayed it with Sail Track. |
Mast Finished and Ready to Step
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See Removing and Stepping the Mast Reconnecting the Mast Wiring The holes in the deck for the mast cables were already drilled by the previous owner. They were not sealed and water did leak at times. I choose to drill out the old balsa wood and seal the holes up. I had a tube of marine silicon that had been sitting around for a while so I decide to use it up in stead of epoxy the holes. The 5/8" sanitary hoses were fitted over the mast outlets and the mast wiring pulled through the hoses to inside of the head. I had just enough inside diameter to fit all five cables. The hoses were cut to length and the wiring pulled down inside of the "pole cover," to under the sink. The final two picture show the completed job inside and on the deck.
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