|
When to Change
Well I guess there is some recommended
number of engine hours but I change the oil each twice a year. The
whole process takes 45 min and the cost is low. The Westerbeke
Engine manual recommends ~ 5 qts of Rotella T.
I get it at Wal-Mart along with the FRAM
filter T68A. You will need a filter wrench along with some paper
towels, trash bags and a small wide mouth funnel. I remove the oil
by pumping it out with a hand pump. I know there are better ways and
cleaner ways and real slick ways of changing the oil, but this works and
is paid for.
(See other acceptable oil filters at
ENGINE DATA) |

 |
|
The Process
Before you start this whole potently messy
operation, you need to run the engine up to operating temperature to get
the oil good and hot.
Entering in through the left side of the salon engine compartment I slip
the intake pump hose over the 3/8" dipstick housing. Yes, of course
you remove the dipstick first!
In picture A
you can see the hose inserted down over the housing.
In picture B
you can see what the end product looks like once you have pumped all the
oil you can get out of the dipstick housing. This could be real
messy so make sure you have the cabin sole covered with oil cloth or paper
towels. Remember that bit of getting the oil good and hot?
Well the brass pump of mine does heat up and I usually have to wrap a rag
around the pump body while holding it.
As soon as I'm finished pumping all the oil I can get out, I bag the pump
back up and store it under the port bunk. Picture
C
shows the 1 gal milk carton about 3/4 full of old oil. This worked
out to about a 3 qts of removed oil. Add to that the remaining oil
in the pump (small amount) and the remaining oil in the engine pan (tilted
back at 13 degrees) and the oil remaining in the oil filter and you have
about 5 qts.
So the oil is out and next is the oil filter, picture
D.
Before taking this loose,
use a plastic bag with some paper towels and form a bucket under the
filter. This will really help the clean up process. Get the
bag right up to the engine block under the filter. See picture
E.
I use a filter
wrench to just loosen the oil filter. See picture
F. When you have the
filter unscrewed pull it off quickly so you don't loose much oil in the
catch bag. Keep it upright and set it in the sink until you can get
to it. Picture G shows the oil
filter attachment fitting.
Before putting the new filter on, give the new rubber
ring a light coat of oil. See picture H.
Screw on the filter hand tight and pull out the plastic bag and paper
towels. If you did this as described you should have a nice clean
area under the new oil filter.
Ah, now the fun part. Pull out the right sliding
drawer on the cabinet face. See picture
I. This allows you to see what your doing when you
pour in the new oil. Remove the oil fill cap on the top of the valve
cover. Using the 1 qt containers of
Rotella T, add 3 qts of new oil.
Put the oil fill cap back on and start the engine and check for leaks
around the filter. Let the engine run for a couple of minutes and
then shut it back down. Allow the engine to set for a time and then
pull out the dipstick and check the oil level. On the dipstick there
are marking for MAX and MIN. Remember this assumes that the engine
is mounted horizontal. (In the Westerbeke manual there are several
references to the, "tractor engine." The W30 is really a British
Leyland engine that was adapted to marine applications by Westerbeke.
See ENGINE
DATA) In picture
J
you will see the MAX, MIN and another scribed mark above the MAX line.
That is the oil level that I fill to considering the 13 degree back angle.
I go back and check this level a couple of times after running the engine
to make sure I haven't overfilled the engine.
So, nothing left but clean up and recording your engine
hour reading and date in the log book.
After reading this makes you want to just go out and
change your oil for the fun of it, doesn't it! ;-{ |

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J |