Zinc Work

 

 

I have been using Zinc "fish" when I found out that the prop zinc was shot. I bought a replacement but it wouldn't fit. It does now!

This zinc is really nice and large as well. Easily changed with an "Allen Wrench". This is a two-part system. A long tapered brass nut and brass washer secure the prop when tightened and "pinned". Then zinc slips on.

I was initially concerned that the blade might have an embedded "rod"

for strength but not so (a series of small holed drilled in the space we would cut proved the thought "false".

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The bottom is about 4 years old (from last haul/paint). I am in SWFL and will layer three (3) coats of Petit's Vivid on her (rates high for Florida). Currently bottom is blue. Will layer: Red, White, and Blue. (Got this trick off the web).

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While on the hard I learned a lot about my Westerbeke "30" raw water system. I was unable to remove the heat exchanger for cleaning so did it "in place". Tough job. Used a Teflon rod smaller than the "tube diameter" to break loose deposits. Also removed the "pencil zinc"

(not written about in the manual). Then flushed with 50/50 Muriatic Acid and water. Let it sit for about 3 min then flushed with fresh water. After the third pass, it was running clean! I am hoping that I've solved my overheating problem. (There were old pieces of prior zinc's inside the chamber and I am sure that from time to time they were blocking the flow of water.)

 

 

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